An iconic dish of Portugal, cod is linked to the era of great explorations: in the 16th century, Lusitanian sailors fished cod in the North Atlantic waters and preserved it in salt to cope with long periods of navigation. It was a fiel amigo - a nickname still used in kitchens today - a faithful companion that could be eaten even after many months and kilometres away. Not to be confused with stockfish, preserved by the drying method, bacalhau comes in hundreds of delicious variations. Myth has it that there are 365 of them, like the days of the year; we tasted five of the best. Here, then, is where to eat in Porto to enjoy cod, amidst the azulejos-covered houses, the ups and downs of the cobbled streets, and the magical flow of the Douro river.
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The azulejos-covered houses of Porto ©Maremagnum/Getty Images
Alentejana soup with lascas de bacalhau
The first recipe originates in the south of Portugal, in the Alentejo region. The cod is blanched for twenty minutes, after which it is set aside. Garlic cloves, olive oil and fresh coriander are added to the remaining hot water. A piece of toasted bread and flaked codfish is served in each bowl, topped with a poached egg and the freshly prepared broth. A simple dish, the kind that has the nostalgic taste of yesteryear.
To enjoy the Alentejo soup, choose a table overlooking the river. At night, the atmosphere is enchanting, thanks to the imposing arch of the Dom Luís I Bridge, dedicated to Louis of Braganza, King of Portugal. In front of you, the waters of the Douro travel swiftly towards the nearby mouth on the ocean, mirroring the many lights of the port wine cellars on the opposite bank.
The right address: Bacalhau, Muro dos Bacalhoeiros 153-155.
The tasty bacalhau á lagareiro
Literally, codfish à la lagareiro. Once the fish has been desalted, it is cooked in the oven with a large amount of new oil, a few onions and the inevitable garlic. Despite the ingredients, the flavour is quite delicate. It is served with mashed potatoes, sometimes together with pitted olives and chopped parsley. It is an ancient dish, typical of peasant life, especially of those who worked at the oil mill.
A stone's throw from the 19th-century Mercado do Bolhão, there are several small restaurants offering the recipe. It will be like stepping back in time to a more genuine past.
Theright address: Restaurante Abadia do Porto, Rua Ateneu Comercial Do Porto 22/24.
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Bacalhau with potatoes and onions ©Matt Munro/Lonely Planet
The famous bacalhau com natas
With our third stop, we reach the apotheosis of cod, in a triumph of taste for the taste buds. The cod is boiled in milk, then cooked in a pan with more milk. And finally the whole thing is put in the oven by mixing the fish with the potatoes: butter on the bottom, béchamel in the middle, grated cheese on top.
Once you have photographed the tiles of the Porto São Bento train station, climbed the spiral staircase of the famous Libreria Lello and admired the church in Praça da Batalha, all you have to do is take a break in front of a steaming pot of this cod au gratin, nicely crisped on the surface and with a very soft heart.
The right address: Adega Tipica Sao Joao, Rua de Alexandre Herculano 183
The cartucho de bacalhau with chestnuts
In the city, you will be spoilt for choice: bacalhau á braz, bacalhau á espiritual; com broa, com cebolada; bacalhau á minhota, bacalhau com batadas á murro... And there are those who also offer cod with seasonal variations. This is the case of the marriage between the savouriness of the fish and the sweet aftertaste of chestnuts during autumn. In this case, the preparation of the cod is baked in foil.
With the dish, venture a glass of dry white port from one of the local producers. Alternatively, if you prefer a red, choose one that is full-bodied on the palate, with notes of ripe fruit. You will feel the full force of the Douro Valley, one of Europe's oldest wine regions and a proud Unesco heritage site.
The right address: Pedro Limão, Rua do Morgado de Mateus 49.
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Balconies overlooking the church of S. Bento da Vitoria in Porto's old town ©Pedro Ivo Mota/Shutterstock
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The delicious fried pastéis de bacalhau
Finally, here are the golden croquettes filled with chopped cod combined with breadcrumbs, parsley, thyme and parmesan cheese. Pastéis means pastries, and the pleasure of eating them, one after the other, is very similar. You can choose them as an aperitif or appetiser, even better if accompanied by rice.
Codfish croquettes are prepared by many bars and cafés. In colder seasons, ask for a warm pair to eat while wandering around the streets of the city centre. After the first bite, you won't be able to do without them, as well as Portugal. All the essence of the country is contained in this legendary fried meatball. Try it to believe.
The right address: Petisqueira Voltaria, Rua Afonso Martins Alho 109.
